Posts Tagged ‘harris’
Calanais III: a subterranean beauty
This is part two of my Isle of Lewis posts. I visited the island of Harris and Lewis recently with my wife ‘M’ and we had a lovely (if windswept) weekend exploring the many megalithic sites of west Lewis. Previously I posted about the main site Callanish I, and in this post I will explore Callanish II and III. “Callanish” is our anglicisation of the gaelic (and preferred) “Calanais”. As I am inter-changeably sympathetic to both parties I will use whichever one I happen to type!
We started our Sunday on the Isle of Lewis by heading straight for Callanish III circle at Garynahine (thereafter shortened to “Gary”). It was the closest site to where we were staying, and is easily accessible from the main road, perched on a slight hill that became a promontory overlooking Loch Ceann Hulabhig.

Loch Ceann Hulabhig
The weather was so different to the day before. On Saturday it has been bitter cold but bright and sunny. Today was cloudy and cold, with a wind that brought drizzle like a fine mist. We were not going to get stunning vistas in our photographs today. I concentrated on the dowsing instead.
Callanish III (Cnoc Fhillibhir Bhig) is a beautiful circle to visit. Nothing about its positioning or proximity to the local populous would bring you to expect that from the road. A short walk up a slight incline, however, reveals something quite magical. Two concentric rings of tall stones made from the impressively pink Lewissian Gneiss that is unique to this landscape.
The outer ring still has eight of its original thirteen stones in place, although there are embedded stones or discoloured grass marking the other places (mostly). As I arrived I saw its inner four stones standing proud amidst a set of nearly-submerged faerie rings (small circles of different-coloured grass). I walked around the outside to get a feel for the site, and to locate an entrance. The bitter cold wind and drizzle meant that I was working expediently – only asking essential questions.
Where was the entrance? I found two embedded stones (both of which dowsed as containing female energy). The entrance was aligned NW/SE. The stone that I am pointing to on my left (your right) was identified as the Transformer Stone. Within a stone circle certain stones can be found to dowse positively for specific qualities. A transformer stone will be transform the radiant energies of either moonlight, sunlight or starlight – sometimes a combination of these. The energy then gets transmitted into the circle’s nemeton, or energy field. Soon I would discover just how this theory worked out, but that’s to come.
Were there any black streams? NO. Glad about that. It didn’t feel like there were. Any white streams? YES. So, there were some good energies at this site – a mixture of female and male energies combined forming ‘white stream’ energy. I had somehow returned to the entrance again, so I walked out of the circle and dowsed for the size of the circle’s nemeton – it’s area of influence, if you like, or the range of its energy field. It was about six feet out and dowsed for male, female and neutral energies. However, it was too cold to get into sorting that mixture out, so I pressed on.
I walked back into the circle to investigate the tall elegant inner four stones. One tall straight stone near the centre was the most powerful. Standing next to it I could feel an energy stream flowing out of its edged side. We see this a lot at sites – a stone that is almost triangular in shape, whose apex edge seems to focus energy along that edge of the stone. I dowsed for the qualities of the tall central stone and discovered that it could charge, discharge and control energies. Again, too cold to go into more detail. Next time I’ll come back in the height of summer!
Next – and with little hesitation – I turned my attention to the concept of finding any cross-over points or accumulations of energies. We call these ‘power centres’ because they always turn out to be the places we need to sit at in order to effectively work with the site’s energies. There was a male power centre in a clump of faerie rings inside the circle where there is a gap between some of the outer stones. The female transformer stone in the outer circle dowsed as being a female power centre.
I went around checking the qualities of each stone. Amongst all the stones there are three female stones amid predominantly male stones.
The last thing I wanted to know was how the site got its power – where were the sources of the male and female energies that combined so well to form a good white stream all around the site? I dowsed the male path and found that it circled the site twice (at least). Then it went into the transformer stone. Was this the origin? YES. I dowsed to see which radiant energy was producing the male energy. Surprise, surprise – it was sunlight.
I repeated the exercise for the female energy and was surprised that a female line squirmed out of the female transformer stone that formed part of the entrance, and headed off around the circle, then swerved out into the heathland on the south side. I tracked the line for five minutes as it marched me up hill and down dale. Finally it stopped at a two feet high stone, beautifully sculpted into a smooth mound, that was practically hidden in the heather about 50 feet away from the stone circle. This stone dowsed as drawing female earth energies out of the ground, and supplying them clockwise into the circle’s nemeton field.
All in all a well balanced and beautiful site on any day of the year. In the next Lewis post I will describe a very quick visit to Callenish II, and the Truiseil Stone – a quite spectacular standing stone hidden away in west Lewis.
Gwas.
Following windswept trails.
Callenish I: Grave of the Kings and The Calanais Labyrinth
Now I know why the Cuillin Mountains are so-named, for ‘cooling’ they were. M and I woke on Saturday morning on the Isle of Skye to the sight of snow all around. A thin layer that rapidly receded in the March morning sunlight until only the sharp incisor teeth of the Cuillins themselves remained white. A perfect postcard picture that I failed to photograph, but which will remain etched on my mind forever.

The hour or so’s ferry journey from Skye to Harris (Uig to Tarbert) gave us chance to meet my colleague and his delightful wife. The pair were alternately animated and informative, which instantly made us feel at ease and entertained in equal measure. We left them watching eagles soar over the North Harris mountains whilst we headed towards Callenish, or Callenais as it is named in Gaelic. I will use ‘Callenish’ to describe the site, and ‘Calanais’ or ‘Callenais’ to evoke its spirit.
The day was delightfully clear and sunny, but freezing cold still. The more I dowsed the nicer it got, however. Dowsing with gloves on in a freezing strong wind tests your motivation, but rewards you with confidence when the rods smoothly swing to perfect geometric patterns against the blustery wind!
I was intruiged by a border of differently-coloured grass that surrounded the site. I dowsed it and found a white stream all around the stones where peat had been cut in a path around the stones. A white stream, you may recall, is one that we have found to be a mixture of female and male energy combined. Was this energy forming to the shape of the border, or had someone cut the correct shape because they knew where the white stream should flow?
I walked the whole perimeter using my left rod to track male energy, and my right rod to trace the line of the female energy. The two streams danced in and out of each other, sometimes in perfect synchrony, sometimes they drifted wider apart or their amplitude ranged in or out until my arms became a chinese puzzle. It felt good to track their dance and I walzted along with them until they decided to part much wider than I could stretch. They did that just as two standing stones that acted as a gateway loomed in front of me. The boggy peat turf path went through the middle of them, but the two streams veered off – the male anti-clockwise around the eastern stone, and the female line spiralled clockwise around the other.
Rejoining the path I continued dowsing to pick up the energy line that I felt probably re-joined from the stones (but didn’t actually dowse). Sure enough within a second of walking past the stone sentries I had got a fix on the two energies again. As I followed the path around the site the female line diverted off again towards the inside. The line went around a dis-coloured patch of grass in a square shape. Even more odd!
I started asking more questions:
- Was the female line attracted to something? YES
- Was there something buried beneath this patch of grass? YES
- Was it something human? YES
- Was there any trace of death energy at this spot? YES
- Was this a human burial site (ok, obviously it was, but I wanted confirmation). YES.
- Was the burial recent? NO
- OK. How old? Less than 1000 years? NO. More than 2000? YES. More than 3000? YES. More than 4000? NO. I eventually got it narrowed to between 3750-4000 years old.
- Was this a male burial? YES.
- Was it a person of renown? YES.
- Was it a King? YES.
At this point I didn’t know where else to take it without straying into even more dodgy territory. Speculative or divinitory dowsing can be fun, but both Kal and I have decided to try to keep its use to an absolute minimum as we search for corroborative answers. We only use it when necessary. This wasn’t necessary, so I stopped.
The ‘proper’ entrance seemed to be from the gate in the north end, along the longest avenue. It was a strange avenue though, almost in two parts, and some sixty or so paces long. It wasn’t, however, the path with the greatest energy. That award went to the male energy line that flowed from the Visitor’s Centre side entrance, and which then wove gently and directly along the site’s half-remaining avenue of stones to the south. This trail ended at another King’s grave that was positioned at the southern circle’s edge.
The idea that these people of renown were still radiating set me thinking. Were they still spoken of? Were these kings buried here still exerting an influence over this site in some way? Were people keeping their memory alight in the collective consciousness of our time, some 4000 years since their demise? How else could they be still radiating death energies? I was confused about the nature of these death energies now. One had a strong male line going either into our out of it – the other was causing a female line to join with a neutral pool of energy elsewhere on the site. Was there a combination or consistency to these energies that I was missing or mis-reading? Or do the energies reflect the abiding personalities and gender traits of the person, rather than their biological sex?
I decided to see if there was a female line anywhere near to this strong male line leading to the king’s grave closest to the outer stone ring. I found a female line flowing in and around the male line, veering off to each side to form spirals that re-emerge to cross over the avenue and back again until they flow in a heart shape through the main power centre.
Everything kept leading me back, drawing me towards this flat stone power centre that overlooked the unusual stone boxes int he centre of the site. This centre is a white power centre – there are no black centres or lines anywhere on the site, that I could find. It was all positive. I felt that the outer white stream had been created as a protection mechanism by someone who knew what they were doing! Just a feeling.
I wanted to do some energy work now. I was ready. The windswept haunting beauty of the site was making me feel alive and attuned, and there was no-one else around. I saluted the four elements – a range of mountains forming a headland, the sun on my back, the fine drizzle, and the wind blowing the clouds northward. Crystals were placed on the main power centre, and I stood over them, looking west.
I asked that the spirit of Callenais form a bridge between this stone circle and the apple tree in my garden. I also directed it to travel to Kal’s front room to make a similar bridge to these energies. Then I cleared the spot. I now concentrated on mingling with the spirit of these stones. I then sent this spirit to my house to see what form it would take.
On the way out we visited the Visitor Centre to view the local artist’s paintings, see the statue of a Celtic shaman, and buy an official guide book. I wanted to check some dates that I had dowsed with those of the archaeologists. I flipped the pages – date of the building of the site? 5000 years ago. Check! Radiocarbon dating of the burial material found, guess where, right where I had located the heart shaped energy formation and the second King’s burial site – dated 1750 BC. 3750 years ago. Check! Maybe there’s something to this archeological dowsing, eh? I felt quietly pleased about the accuracy of the dowsing, and even more sure about the grave locations and the dowsing of the death energies.
We shoot forward now to Monday evening, and our return home after a very long days’ travel down stunning highland roads and endless motorways. When I got back I dowsed for any energy around the tree. I got the Venus symbol. The horns were on one side, the tail on the other. The eye was the trunk itself. I also dowsed inside the house in my usual energy-sending place. I found something completely unexpected!
At first I couldn’t trace it because it seemed very intricate and went back on itself. I wasn’t going slowly enough! I found the centre of the formation. Then I asked to be lead out of the formation along an energy path. It lead me around in what I thought was a sort of fat horn shape – sort of like my Venus symbol, yeah? No. I asked if this was correct. The rods said that what I had found was accurate. I continued. Same again – a fat rounded horn shape that wasn’t the Venus horns. I started afresh. Simply follow the line. I walked around in a path that formed what can only be described as a Celtic labyrinth pattern.
I asked some questions:-
- Was it from Calanais? YES.
- Had I helped to create it? YES.
- Was it composed of any detrimental energy? NO
- Did it have any spectral colours? NO.
- What was the gender of any energies that comprised it? FEMALE and MALE. White stream emergy.
- Was the pattern going to be around long? Hmmmm. Was it maintained by my thoughts of Calanais? YES.
- Can it be used to strengthen the energies of the house? YES.
- Is it a pattern that should be walked? YES.
- Is it a labyrinth, as a dowser would understand that term? YES.
- Is it possible to learn something from this formation? YES.
- Is it here to stroke cats? NO. Just checking!
Now I have a riddle piled on top of an enigma. Time to get thinking.
My next installment will be a post about the visits to Callenish II and III – two more great stone circles in the vicinity of Callenish I. Also up soon is the Truiseil Stone megalith, and other curiosities of the Isle of Lewis.
Gwas.
Following in the footsteps of Time Team.












